Been a while since the last post, personally I blame Forge World for a post Games Day lack of mojo. But, I have managed to get the tutorial for my Ork vehicles done.
I've used a weapon arm for the tutorial as it was easier to photograph but the following applies to anything, from Battle Wagons to Kans to Warbikes.
The piece has been undercoated with black., all paints are from Games Workshop.
Stage 1 - Drybrush Codex Grey
Stage 2 - Paint any red plates with Mechrite Red.
Stage 3 - Basecoat any metal areas with Boltgun Metal.
Stage 4 - Highlight the metal from the stage 3, then add any scratches and chips, with Chainmail.
Stage 5 - Wash the entire piece with Devlan Mud.
Stage 6 -
Start by basecoating the area with Fortress Grey. I use 2 thin coats as to not obscure detail.
Layer a 1/1 mix of Fortress Grey and Skull White over the basecoat, again with 2 thin coats.
Layer Skull White in 2 thin coats over the previous layer. 6 coats may seem excessive, but it's the only way to build up a decent white over black. These 6 layers may look a little streaky but don't worry too much, this is an Ork vehicle after all.
Next, use thinned Chaos Black to mark out a checker pattern on the white area. Again with Chaos Black, fill in alternate squares. Again, neatness isn't a massive issue.
After you've painted in the black squares, apply the chips and scratches over the checker pattern with a 1/1 mix of Chaos Black and Codex Grey.
Once you've basecoated the damage on the white areas, go back over them with Chainmail to highlight.
Stage 7 - Wash with a 2/2/15 mix of Bestial Brown, Klear and water. Klear is an clear acrylic floor polish, found in most supermarkets. It works well as a gloss varnish, but i've used it in the wash mix to break the surface tension of the wash, which allows it to flow into the recesses on the figure without pooling.
Stage 8 - Wash with a 2/2/15 mix of Macharius Solar Orange, Klear and water. Limit this wash to very rusty areas, rivets and deep recesses.
Stage 9 - Highlight the prominent edges of the weapon blade and add more chips and damage with Chainmail. Adding the brighter metal chips to the weapon alone will lighten the area, drawing the eye to it.
Using this method you could punch out a Kan in around 3 or 4 hours, not including drying time of the washes. Perfect time to make a cup of coffee.
Im going to be working on a couple of figs for Mol over at Inq28, before moving on to the Deff Dreads.
Thanks for reading.