Sunday, 31 October 2010

First among many......

Bit of a long one wait between updates, due to a single reason - Fallout New Vegas. Sadly im one of those people that can't do anything else until i've finished a game, which killed any hobby mojo. Luckily I managed to get the first of 2 Deff Dreads done just before the game came out.

Very pleased with how it turned out, even if it took a little longer than I wanted it to. Far too many edges to add chipping to.

Going to work on the second Dread next, then im going to work on a test figure for a new marine army.

Thanks for reading.

Friday, 15 October 2010

Another Kan?

Not much to report for the last couple of weeks, im still reeling from the Forge World mojo killing from Games Day/

On the plus side, i've managed to get a couple of things done. Firstly, another character for Mol over at Inq28, and another Killa Kan, bringing the current total to 3.

I've also made a start on the first of 2 Deff Dreads for the army. This is at the basecoat stage, next its on to the washes, which should take half the time the basecoats took. Expect some finished photos in the next couple of days.

Thats about it today, though I can't really sign off without thanking Mol at Inq28 for the large box he sent me last week. Not going to give up too many details of whats in it, though it will be Mega....

Thanks for reading.

Tuesday, 5 October 2010

Tutorial - Ork Dreads and Kans.

Been a while since the last post, personally I blame Forge World for a post Games Day lack of mojo. But, I have managed to get the tutorial for my Ork vehicles done.

I've used a weapon arm for the tutorial as it was easier to photograph but the following applies to anything, from Battle Wagons to Kans to Warbikes.

The piece has been undercoated with black., all paints are from Games Workshop.

Stage 1

Stage 1 - Drybrush Codex Grey

Stage 2

Stage 2 - Paint any red plates with Mechrite Red.

Stage 3

Stage 3 - Basecoat any metal areas with Boltgun Metal.

Stage 4

Stage 4 - Highlight the metal from the stage 3, then add any scratches and chips, with Chainmail.

Stage 5

Stage 5 - Wash the entire piece with Devlan Mud.

Stage 6

Stage 6 -  
Start by basecoating the area with Fortress Grey. I use 2 thin coats as to not obscure detail. 
Layer a 1/1 mix of Fortress Grey and Skull White over the basecoat, again with 2 thin coats. 
Layer Skull White in 2 thin coats over the previous layer. 6 coats may seem excessive, but it's the only way to build up a decent white over black. These 6 layers may look a little streaky but don't worry too much, this is an Ork vehicle after all. 
Next, use thinned Chaos Black to mark out a checker pattern on the white area. Again with Chaos Black, fill in alternate squares. Again, neatness isn't a massive issue. 
After you've painted in the black squares, apply the chips and scratches over the checker pattern with a 1/1 mix of Chaos Black and Codex Grey. 
Once you've basecoated the damage on the white areas, go back over them with Chainmail to highlight.

Stage 7

Stage 7 - Wash with a 2/2/15 mix of Bestial Brown, Klear and water. Klear is an clear acrylic floor polish, found in most supermarkets. It works well as a gloss varnish, but i've used it in the wash mix to break the surface tension of the wash, which allows it to flow into the recesses on the figure without pooling.

Stage 8

Stage 8 - Wash with a 2/2/15 mix of  Macharius Solar Orange, Klear and water. Limit this wash to very rusty areas, rivets and deep recesses.

Stage 9

Stage 9 - Highlight the prominent edges of the weapon blade and add more chips and damage with Chainmail. Adding the brighter metal chips to the weapon alone will lighten the area, drawing the eye to it.

Using this method you could punch out a Kan in around 3 or 4 hours, not including drying time of the washes. Perfect time to make a cup of coffee. 

Im going to be working on a couple of figs for Mol over at Inq28, before moving on to the Deff Dreads.

Thanks for reading.